Voglio fare la Cosmetologa - Intervista Silhouette Donna

Di recente mi hanno domandato cosa significhi essere Cosmetologa. Ho cercato di dare risposte esaurienti, ma la verità è che dopo più di vent'anni di vita in laboratorio, amo questo lavoro come il primo giorno, e non lo vedo ancora come un lavoro, ma come l'espressione di come secondo me dovrebbe essere concepita la bellezza di una formulazione cosmetica. Io la vedo come un mix costituito da pochi ma essenziali fattori: una eccellente base scientifica e tecnica, glamour, eleganza e classe. 

Come un abito sartoriale.

RF Cosmetici si certifica Halal

Halal rispecchia la tendenza nello skincare di seguire il lifestyle.

Nel mondo del Beauty il lifestyle è ciò che guida le scelte: chi segue un credo forte come l'Islam ricerca formulati coerenti con la Sharia.

La Cosmesi Halal è diversa dalla cosmetica etnica, che considera le diversità morfologiche della pelle. E'diversa dalla cosmesi biologica che pone in primo piano la naturalità dei prodotti. E’ diversa anche dalla cosmetica hi-tech che sfiora quella compagine di principi attivi che sono ben noti nella comunità scientifica, e vengono abitualmente impiegati in specialità per uso topico.

La cosmetica Halal non rinnega tutto questo, anzi, è indubbiamente dalla parte del progresso e dell’innovazione: lascia libero il formulatore di utilizzare sostanze estremamente performanti, come gli elastomeri siliconici, ma anche i polimeri necessari al mantenimento della stabilità dei prodotti in condizioni estreme di trasporto e di stoccaggio, infine consente l’uso di sostanze di sintesi, indubbiamente più sicure quando si parla di “titolo” di sostanze attive. Questi elementi sono perfettamente allineati alla nostra filosofia aziendale.

L’altro elemento chiave che contraddistingue RF Cosmetici è seguire le tendenze. Da anni siamo attenti alle continue evoluzioni del mercato, del costume e della società, e il lifestyle è divenuto l’elemento caratterizzante nella scelta degli individui.

Il rispetto per il Corano e per la Sunna, associato all'attenzione per la cura di se, e ai rituali legati al benessere, richiede formulazioni innovative e performanti.

Per questo abbiamo deciso di realizzare una linea skincare Halal, che sarà distribuita non solo nei Paesi a forte compagine musulmana, ma anche nelle spa e nei resort europei che sono pronti all'accoglienza di un turista, quello musulmano,  particolarmente attento alla coerenza dei suoi consumi con i suoi precetti religiosi: dalla ristorazione ai rituali del benessere in Spa. La scelta di impiegare un packaging ricercato e' personale: e' da sempre una scelta della nostra azienda esaltare la creatività, la classe e l'eleganza manifatturiera tutta italiana.

L'adesione agli standard Halal è molto più che aggiungere un atout alla produzione conto terzi di RF Cosmetici: riguarda la consapevolezza che lo stile di vita guiderà sempre di più le scelte dei consumatori. Seguire questo orientamento rappresenta per noi una sfida, quella di lanciarsi in un progetto di ricerca e sviluppo di prodotti che siano su misura per questo lifestyle.

Un ringraziamento speciale alla dr.ssa Annamaria Tiozzo, presidente di Whad Italia, Centro di Certificazione Halal Italiano, e tutto il suo staff, per averci supportati in questi mesi, per averci incoraggiato e accompagnato lungo un percorso che è stato, a volte, fatto di scelte difficili. Ringraziamo la dr.ssa Tiozzo per la sua pazienza, ma soprattutto siamo onorati per avere messo a nostra disposizione la sua grande preparazione, e per essere stata sempre attenta e ricettiva all’evoluzione di ciò che comporta la certificazione Halal in campo internazionale. 

Market Trend - Sensory Experience and Skin Types

Market Trend

Sensory Experience and Skin Types  

Sophisticated texture and fragrance as part of a formulation’s aesthetics are important to the discerning consumer, and skin type - i.e., dry, sensitive, combination or oily - is the primary influence behind how the consumer perceives a skin care product. For example, consumers with dry skin require a richer moisturizer, even though the product should absorb quickly for a smooth finish. 

Assessing Skin Type Most women believe they understand their skin type but they are often wrong. Facial sebum excretion dictates skin oiliness, with both excessive oiliness and low oil, i.e., dry skin, being undesirable. Skin type assessment is based on the consumer’s subjective view of dryness or oiliness; however, discrepancies are often found between this subjective view and objective measurements. 

Within the scientific community, no clear consensus regarding skin type exists;1 whereas among beauty professionals, the primary classification of skin types would be the traditional dry, oily, combination and sensitive, as identified by Helena Rubinstein in the early 20th century. These categories are still widely used by skin care manufacturers when marketing products tailored to a specific skin type, although they inadequately address other clinically observed skin features such as pigmentation or wrinkles. The innovative and more complex Baumann Skin Typing System classification differentiating four independent spectrums - dry to oily, sensitive to resistant, pigmented to non-pigmented, and wrinkled to tight- has not yet been broadly accepted.2  

Skin types and cultural attitudes toward skin care differ across the globe, and the most common skin type assessment is “combination” skin, with two different zones on the face.3, 4 Research into oily skin types has been carried out particularly in Asia, where there is a negative cultural attitude attached to shiny facial skin. Interestingly, research in Asia has shown that only in cases where consumers have a specific concern, such as shiny and oily skin, is their self-assessment correct.

Formulation Aesthetics

European women attach great importance to the fragrance, texture and comfort of a formulation. They generally perceive aging as a natural process so rather than focusing on the effects of a formulation, they focus on how it feels.⁶ In contrast, Asian and American women value results and efficacy more than comforting textures and fragrances.

Since the 1990s, media attention has been focused on addressing the needs of sensitive skin, and marketing messages about environmental aggressors such as sun exposure, harsh weather conditions, air-conditioning, dramatic temperature changes, harsh facial cleansers and exfoliators, etc., are powerful in skin care. More consumers are convinced that their skin is sensitive and in need of soothing ingredients, thus creamy and cocooning formulations reinstate this pampering sense of taking care of oneself.

Natural skin care formulations are also rising in popularity, and they often contain plant oils that may, contrary to their soothing connotations, cause problems for skin types with impaired skin barrier. For instance, research suggests that oleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid and a transdermal penetration enhancer, can disturb epidermal barrier function in children with atopic dermatitis.⁷ In this author’s view, this detriment could be extended to all skin types with weak barrier function, in those who are genetically predisposed or those afflicted by external stressors. Oleic and palmitoleic acids, present in plant oils such as olive, grape seed and sea buckthorn, have been shown to induce epidermal hyperplasia, clinically manifesting as scaly skin and abnormal follicular keratinization (implicated in acne) in animal models.⁸

Older consumers with oily skin types are often concerned about increased sebum excretion and are reluctant to apply moisturizers. 

Emollient fluids that combine glycerin, dicaprylyl carbonate and cyclomethicone with absorbent rice powder therefore work best to achieve a light texture that feels soft and smooth without leaving a greasy residue.

In today’s fast-paced culture, consumers also expect to see noticeable results, immediately failing to recognize that skin care efficacy requires time. This instant gratification is provided by pleasant textures and fragrances and the feeling of an “instant effect” after application. For example, a self-heating mask could provide an instant pore-opening effect through the thermal action of a zeolite since this microporous aluminosilicate mineral emits heat when transitioning from a dehydrated to a hydrated form. These are the elements that provide the daily skin care narrative with some excitement.⁹

Discussion it is important to recognize the value consumers attach to the texture and fragrance of their skin care products. The pleasure associated with applying skin care encourages compliance, and each skin type seeks different textures and fragrances to connect them with a sense of touch, their childhood memories and reassuring rituals. The challenge in formulating correctly for specific skin types lies in understanding concerns associated with these skin types in detail, yet keeping the categories simple enough for consumers to navigate easily through the overwhelming skin care market. 

 References:

1. SW Youn, SJ Kim, IA Hwang and KC Park, Evaluation of facial skin type by sebum secretion: discrepancies between subjective description and sebum secretion, Skin Res Technol 8 168–172 (2002)
2. LS Baumann, The Baumann Skin Typing System, in Textbook of Aging Skin, MA Farage, KW Miller and HI Maibach, eds, Springer Verlag, Berlin/Heidelberg, Germany (2010) p 88
3. SW Youn, JI Na, SY Choi, CH Huh and KC Park, Regional and seasonal variations in facial sebum secretions: a proposal for the definition of combination skin type, Skin Res Technol 11 189–195 (2005)
4. I Le Fur, S Lopez, F Morizot, C Guinot and E Tschachler, Comparison of cheek and forehead regions by bioengineering methods in women with different self-reported “cosmetic skin types,” Skin Res Technol 5 182–188 (1999)
5. S Nouveau-Richard, W Zhu and YH Li et al, Oily skin: specific features in Chinese women, Skin Res Technol 13(1) 43–48 (2007)
6. P Kondhia, Estée Lauder launches anti-aging cream specifically targeting European woman, Cosmetic Design Europe, www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Market-Trends/Estee-Lauder-launches-anti-ageing-cream- specifically-targeting-European-women (Accessed on Feb 2, 2012)
7. K Schaefer, Mild Cleansing, Effective Preservation for Baby Care, Cosm & Toil 125(5) 16 (2010)
8. Y Katsuta, T Iida, S Inomata and M Denda, Unsaturated fatty acids induce calcium influx into keratinocytes and cause abnormal differentiation of epidermis, J Invest Dermatol 124(5) 1008–13 (2005)
9. S Irvine, Skin Deep, Vogue 1 162–165 (2008)

By: Katerina Steventon, PhD, of FaceWorkshops

Developing Skin-Lightening Products

Developing Skin-Lightening Products

Skin lightening refers to the ability of a product to reduce hyper-pigmented areas or spots on the skin. These products, also referred to as skin-whiteners, brighteners, or bleach creams, try to even and lessen skin coloration due to the formation of excessive melanin.

The Biology of Skin Pigmentation

The skin pigmentation process is complex. It’s believed there are at least 14 primary mechanisms involved in the formation of skin color, as well as 3 secondary ones. Skin color originates in the epidermis, where the pigment-producing cells, melanocytes, are located.

Upon UV exposure, these cells produce pigment, called melanin. This process is referred to as melanogenesis (see figure below-right) and is controlled by the copper-containing enzyme tyrosinase. Tyrosinase is located in vesicles called melanosomes which are inside melanocytes.

Two types of pigments are synthesized in melanosomes: eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin is a dark brown-black insoluble polymer, and pheomelanin is a light red-yellow sulphur containing soluble polymer.

M. Gillbro, M. J. Olsson, The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin-lightening agents – existing and new approaches. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2011, 33, 210-221. Click to view full size image.

Most skin-lighteners (EU) target tyrosinase inhibition as the main mechanism. New actives have been developed that claim to interfere with the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes. Another efficient mechanism would be to block the up-regulation of tyrosinase and block the stimulation of melanocyte dendricity. This could be achieved by interfering with the binding of keratinocyte mediators to their melanocyte receptors or by inhibiting the production of these mediators.

Skin-Lightening Strategies

Skin-lightening strategies include utilizing combinations of materials that work by different mechanisms. All skin-lightening formulations should contain a chelating agent (EU), an antioxidant (EU), and a skin-soothing agent (EU).

Enzyme Inhibition

• Tyrosinase synthesis and activity.
• Phenylalanine hydroxylase (PAH).
• Tyrosinase hydroxylase isoenzyme 1 (TH-I).
• Dopa oxidase
• Tyrosinase-related proteins (TRP-1,2) similar to tyrosinase.
• Antioxidant enzymes such as catalase, glutathione peroxidase, glutathione reductase and thioredoxin reductase.
• Protease-activated receptor 2 (PAR-2) inhibition may have an impact on melanosome transfer.
• Binding to the peroxisome proliferator activated receptor-gamma (PPAR-gamma) and thereby inhibiting the mRNA and protein levels.

Other Mechanisms

• Inhibit melanocyte dendricity.
• Inhibit melanin stimulating hormone (MSH).
• Melanosome transfer inhibitors.
• Reduce skin irritation, which is known to stimulate hyperpigmentation.
• Inhibit microphthalmia-associated transcription factor gene (MITF) expression. MITF plays a central role in melanin synthesis, as well as melanosome biogenesis and transport.
• Increase cell turnover and desquamation.
• Chelating agents – copper (EU) is essential for tyrosinase activity. Utilize antioxidants. UV irradiation can produce reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin that may induce melano-genesis by activating tyrosinase.
• Utilize cosmetic anti-inflammatory agents (EU).
• Serine protease inhibitors may also inhibit Melanosome transfer.

Recommended Ingredients

Niacinamide
May inhibit melanosome transfer.

ALPHA-ARBUTIN  ­

Tested at 1%, it was shown to perform better than 1% hydroquinone after 1 month.

Ascorbic Acid

Suppresses melanin formation.

Retinol/Retynyl Palmitate
Inhibits tyrosinase, TRP-1.

Oligopeptide-68

A novel skin-lightening active that inhibits tyrosinase, MITF, TRP-1, and TRP-2. MITF is a critical factor in melanogenesis.

TGP2

Decrease melanin synthesis by down-regulation of TRP-1, TRP-2, MITF, and Tyrosinase, - Block Melanosome transfer form Melanocyte to Keratinocyte.  
Glycolic/lactic acids
Increase cell turnover/desquamation and may inhibit tyrosinase.

Fragrance Compounds
Several fragrance compounds may be useful in skin-lightening products. Developing a fragrance designed for skin-lightening products could be useful to increase efficacy. The following have significant tyrosinase inhibition at 100ug/ml:

• Citronellic acid-89%
• Citronellol-75%
• Geraniol-66%
• Farnesol-57% (EU)
• Decanol-57%
• Tetrahydro geraniol

Reference
J. M. Gillbro, M. J. Olsson, The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin-lightening agents – existing and new approaches. Int. J.  Cosmet. Sci. 2011, 33, 210-221.

The pro-aging movement: the beauty of being old

Forget all about anti-aging products and the search for the “source of eternal youth,” now the trend is showing off your real age. This is the new revolution in the personal care market; the pro-aging idea.

According to Marcia Newman, author of the book Five Gifts of Pro-aging, this “grey-roots” movement consists of women that celebrate their natural “shades of grey, silver or white.” This idea has found an important support online with several blogs, some of them defending the beauty of this silver age. Similarly, Hollywood is showing support: actress Jamie Lee Curtis wrote a piece for the Huffington Post criticizing the concept of “anti” for aging, and Cindy Joseph, a make-up artist and model, has released “the first pro-age cosmetic line” under the Boom brand.

This self-expression of the real age is perceived as another step for women’s liberation; it proposes to free women from the “slavery” of total perfection and the ideal concept of beauty, which condemn women to look always as in their 20s.

Silver segment

With this new perception, all traditional anti-aging or anti-wrinkles claims are becoming outdated. Beauty companies are aware of all the potential of this “silver segment,” however, are they approaching them in the correct way? What are the real possibilities for this audience?

According to the United Nations, the proportion of persons aged 60 and over will reach two billion by 2050, many of them in developed countries. Additionally the proportion of older people living in less developed areas will increase from the current 64% to 80% by 2050. With this big consumer base, the forecasts for the anti-aging market are very optimistic. In Europe there is an expected growth in the anti-aging facial care market of 13% for the interval 2014-18, in America of 15%, and interestingly in Africa & Middle East of 28%. But Asia-Pacific wins the first prize with an expected growth of 40% for the same time period.

To extract the full potential of this segment, beauty companies need to find the correct way to attract silver consumers, starting answering a simple question: what do they want at this stage of life?

Positive claims

The philosophy of the “pro-aging” movement seeks to remove all “anti” claims because, according to this concept, women over 50s are not interested in looking younger; they want to look healthy and be honest about their age. This is represented in the mentioned Boom line of beauty products that adopts a different language: cosmetics customize their colour according to the skin tone rather than cover wrinkles; and moisturizers protect and heal instead of providing a lifting effect.

This new approach has already been noticed by some beauty brands, which are bridging the gap providing positive claims rather than using “anti-xxx” messages. This is the case of L’Oreal that uses the idea of “improves the appearance of skin quality” for its new Skin Perfection Perk Up Cream, or the new ‘Charlotte’s Magic Cream’ presented as “plumped-up finish.” The same concept is used on trendy beauty oils that mostly promise restoring “skin’s comfort,” such as Evree branded Intensive Facial Care Treatment.

But what are the next steps? This pro-aging idea is not exclusive property of the skincare area and can easily adapted into other segments such as make-up, with cosmetics that enhance, not cover, such as the Revitalizing Mineral Makeup launched by Origins, or the Instant Light Natural Lip Perfector, released by Clarins, that make lips look smooth and shiny. The haircare segment has also many possibilities with products able to “smooth the hair surface” and restore shine such as the recent Schwarzkopf Essence Ultime Crystal Shine Shampoo.

The pro-aging idea is gaining more support. This concept together with the new wave of the “no make-up” look, is transforming the idea of ideal beauty. Natural looks are now more on-trend than ever and beauty companies need to be able to provide the perfect answer.

Sources: Datamonitor Consumer; Huffington Post; “Five Gifts of Pro-aging,”Marcia Newman

Cosmetic Formulators’ Guide to Stability Testing

One of the most common types of testing cosmetic formulators perform is stability testing. Unfortunately, this is not a topic covered in college, so most people who start in the cosmetic industry know very little about the subject.

Having a thorough knowledge of what stability testing is, when you need to conduct tests and how you do them is critical for anyone who wants to be a successful formulator. We will cover some key aspects of cosmetic stability testing in this article.

What is stability testing?

When putting together a cosmetic product, your primary goal as a formulator is to create a product that looks, feels, smells and performs the same way for the consumer as it did on the first day that you made it.  Products that fail these standards are low-quality and may even be considered unsafe.  The way you ensure a high-quality product is to conduct a stability test, which subjects your formula to different environmental conditions over a specific amount of time.  You track any changes that might occur and decide whether the changes are significant.

When do you stability test formulas?

Since you’ll be making hundreds or thousands of prototypes during your career, it won’t be practical to run a stability test on all of them. You’ll also find that projects change so rapidly at your company that you won’t have time to properly test many of your formulas. But there are times when you need to do stability testing.  These include the following:

• New prototypes
• New raw material qualifications
• New manufacturing procedures
• New packaging

Philosophy of stability testing

Stability testing is simply an experiment in which you create a batch of your formula and put samples of it at different environmental conditions for a set period of time. These conditions vary in temperature and light levels and are meant to simulate what will happen to the product during its life cycle.

At various time intervals you evaluate your samples for various physical, chemical and performance characteristics and determine whether any changes are significant based on your company standards.  If nothing changes significantly (which is your hope) then your formula is said to have “passed” stability testing. This means you can be confident that when the formula is shipped to stores and ultimately customers, it will still be as good as when it was first manufactured.  It’s common in the cosmetic industry to strive for a formula that is stable at room temperature for at least one year.

One underlying assumption in stability testing is that increasing storage temperature speeds up aging reactions that might occur. An industry rule-of-thumb is that a sample stored at 45°C for 8 weeks is equivalent to one that is stored at room temperature for one year.  Stability testing isn’t exact science, but it’s good enough for the purposes of cosmetic products.

How do you stability test a cosmetic?

In the US, there are no set rules on how you must conduct a stability test for cosmetic products. For cosmetic OTC products like sunscreens (EU), AP/DO, ordandruff shampoos (EU) the FDA has specific stability test requirements that you have to follow. See the FDA website for more information.

For cosmetic products, here is a basic format to follow when conducting a stability test:

• Make your batches. Sometimes a test and a control batch need to be made.
• Fill samples. Ideally, this will be in the finished packaging. Using glass jars is advisable too.
• Take initial readings. This way you’ll know where the formula started.
• Put samples at various conditions. Try temperature ranges from 4°C – 50°C. Also, vary lighting conditions.
• Evaluate samples at time intervals. Typically, 2, 4, 8 and 12 week intervals are used.  Don’t forget to do a microbial challenge test.
• Determine stability.  If the formula has changed little in 8 weeks at elevated temperatures, it will likely last for a year at room temperature.

Stability testing is a crucial part of creating safe and effective cosmetic products. Whenever you launch a new product or make a significant change to a current one, be sure to do a proper stability test.

Mosaico Bellezza: la nuova linea di dermocosmesi in Farmacia

Arte e bellezza si incontrano nella nuova linea cosmetica ‘Mosaico’, creata  in esclusiva da RF Cosmetici per le Farmacie Comunali di Ravenna. Una collezione innovativa di formulati dermocosmetici che evocano i colori, l’eleganza e la magia dei mosaici.

Narra la leggenda che i Bizantini fossero un popolo magnifico e misterioso. E Ravenna, la loro antica città capitale dell’Impero Romano d’Occidente, è proprio così: misteriosa e splendida. Da sempre terra di passioni, di condivisioni e pluralità, Ravenna è candidata a capitale della cultura 2019 e qui tutto parla di storia, arte e cultura.

Per celebrare i tratti indelebili della cultura di questa terra unica, Ravenna Farmacie e RF Cosmetici hanno dato vita al progetto “Mosaico”, una esclusiva collezione di formulati dermocosmetici che evocano i colori, l’eleganza e la magia dei mosaici di Ravenna.

Quando la civiltà romana cadde sotto i colpi dei barbari invasori, l'arte traslocò presso le sicure terre d'oriente. A Bisanzio e nel resto dell'Impero d'Oriente si formarono scuole di mosaicisti che produssero opere grandiose. Sotto la spinta della nuova religione, il Cristianesimo, i muri delle basiliche si vestirono di miliardi di piccole tessere colorate.

Il mosaico bizantino, pittura per l'eternità, da oltre mille anni affascina per l'abbagliante splendore delle sue immagini.

La linea di dermocosmesi Mosaico si ispira alla perfezione e alla bellezza di un’opera d’arte. Il décor della linea è stato creato da un’opera d’arte grandiosa, concepita appositamente per il brand dall’artista Anna Fietta, la quale ha visto le sue opere esposte a Los Angeles e all’Arena Glashaus di Berlino.

Ogni formulato della linea Mosaico è appositamente progettato per affrontare in maniera globale e completa i segni del tempo attraverso l’impiego di esclusivi principi attivi in grado di riattivare i processi energetici  rallentati.

Agiscono infatti sul Ritmo Circadiano amplificando i due processi bioenergetici fondamentali per dare energia alle cellule: la glicolisi e il metabolismo mitrocondriale.